SENEGAL TRIP GUIDE
Travel in Senegal Through Chaos, Safari Dreams & Colonial Vibes
The Vibe:
Not what I expected - felt like the country was not really ready for tourism yet - plus knowing some French is a must!
Nature unfortunately disappointed (at least during the dry season in April), but beaches are great.
The People:
To be honest, I did not feel the most welcome, and people are not smiley and chill, like they are in Gambia.
I felt safe, though; it just felt like everything had to be asked, and in French.
The 2 Unexpected things:
I have not seen that old cars in function before.
The Bandia Safari was great and felt like a hidden gem, considering that I saw Zepras, Giraffes, Crocodiles and other animal with the price of 35€ for the whole tour.
What You'll Feel:
Senegal shows the contrast between fancy French (neo-colonialist) holiday areas and undeveloped rural Africa.
You’ll feel adventurous but safe.
Is Senegal worth visiting?
I highly recommend considering also Gambia as a destination.
We combined a trip to Senegal and Gambia. In all honesty, I would have preferred staying longer in Gambia than in Senegal. Gambia was much more chill, people were very friendly and chill and spoke English, and everything functioned much better.
So to answer the question; is Senegal worth visiting?
I would say 50-50. It was interesting and I don't regret it, but if you have not been in Western Africa before, you can start from Gambia.
Is senegal safe for tourists?
I felt safe in Senegal, but simply use common sense that you would when traveling in new destinations. For example, we disabled contactless card payment and kept cash in multiple places. We wouldn't horse around at night in dodgy locations and didn't get too drunk.
Make sure you show your passport to border control in case you cross Senegal-Gambia border
If you decide to cross the border of Senegal and Gambia, make sure you go to border control AFTER getting stamp to your passport. They will check it and all your belongings.
(We did not realize that a random dude in civil clothes was a border control police, and we almost got into huge trouble for resisting officials, by accident of course).
Longer story here:
Senegal travel blog - The honest travel story how it all went when traveling in Senegal and Gambia
Learn French
If you don’t speak any French (or Wolof) you’re gonna have a tough time in Senegal. So make yourself a favor and learn some survival basics, at least.
Senegal is not like Morocco
Morocco is my all-time-favorite country, and due to the close(ish) geographical location of Senegal and Morocco, I expected to see similar nature and African arts as in Morocco. However, in my experience Senegal is far behind in development compared to Morocco.
Read also: Morocco travel guide
Ask restaurants from locals, not from google maps
We ended up deciding restaurants based on what we found on Google Maps. However, it turns out only the tourist-oriented restaurants are listed there. So you end up paying four times the price and having a Western experience. Rather, be brave and just ask people on the streets (or at least at your hotel reception) where to eat.
Visa Information:
Many nationalities, including those from the EU, USA, Canada, and Australia, can enter Senegal for tourism stays of up to 90 days without a visa. Always double-check the latest regulations.
Official Language
French is the official language, and knowing some French is a must for a smoother experience.
Best time to visit:
The dry season (November to May) is generally considered the best time for pleasant temperatures and easier travel. For us the weather was perfect in April.
Currency:
The official currency is the West African CFA Franc (XOF).
Time zone:
Senegal has a single time zone, which is GMT (Greenwich Mean Time) (CET -2).
Calling Code:
The international calling code for Senegal is +221.
Capital City:
The capital city of Senegal is Dakar.
Emergency numbers:
Ambulance: 00221338651818
Fire fighters: 18
Police: 17
To enquire about any number from the telephone company: 1212
Payments:
Majorly only cash or mobile money. Get cash from ATMs or use mobile money Wave or Orange Money.
Hygiene:
Tap water is not safe to drink; stick to bottled or purified water. Practice good food and hand hygiene.
Internet Usage:
Wi-Fi can be unreliable; consider a local SIM card for better access. Orange is the recommended operator.
Power plug type:
Senegal uses Type C and Type E electrical outlets, (The European Standard) 230 V, 50 Hz.
Tipping Culture:
Tipping is appreciated for good service in restaurants, by guides, etc, but it is voluntary.
Alcohol:
Alcohol is available in tourist areas, but be mindful of public consumption in more conservative regions. It is more common than for example in Morocco, though.
Dress code:
Modest dressing is generally recommended, especially outside tourist areas. However, it is not at all too strict Islamic country.
Driving side:
In Senegal, they drive on the right-hand side of the road.
I would say these are the best Senegal destinations to visit.
Goree Island & House of Slaves
A UNESCO World Heritage site just off the coast of Dakar. Gorée Island with House of Slaves provides interestng perspective on transatlantic slave trade.
Remember to take your passport with you as you need it to enter
Bandia Safari
Affordable hidden gem to spot Zebras, Rhinos, Giraffes, Antelopes, Monkeys and Birds.
Go in the morning, and share a 8-seater ride with others at the ticket booth. No need to book in advance
Sine-Saloum Delta
This UNESCO-protected network of islands, waterways, and mangrove forests. Explore the unique ecosystem by boat or kayak, discover traditional villages, and observe diverse birdlife.
We stayed at this accommodation at Sine-Saloum Delta
Saly
Saly has amazing beaches and restaurants right by the beach.
You are likely served French food instead of Senegalese, as Saly is heavily French tourist place
Dakar
The Capital of Senegal is worth visiting to see the "organized chaos" and to visit markets and other viewpoints.
Keep your belongings close and negotiate taxi prices beforehand
I would say Senegalese cuisine is quite heavy, consisting of rice combined with chicken, meat or fish.
The local dishes and drinks were delicious and youshould definitely give them a try.
The national dish, a rice dish cooked with fish, vegetables, and tomato sauce. You can also order it with meat instead (Thiébou Yapp).
A delicious dish where chicken or fish is marinated in lemon, onions, mustard, and spices, then grilled or stewed. The chicken one I treid was quite spicey, making it really tasty.
A rich and savory stew made with peanuts, meat tomatoes, and vegetables.
A drink made from hibiscus flowers and often combined with mint. I recommend buying from store the unsweetened version, as it tastes very different than the sweetened one you are most likely serwed in places. Perfect for hydration in the heat!
A spicy ginger drink made from fresh ginger, water, and sugar.
A sweet and creamy dessert made with millet couscous, yogurt, and often flavored with vanilla or orange blossom water.
Look for local restaurants that are called Dibiteries to test these cuisines. You can also ask locals on the street.
It will be very difficult time in Senegal, if you don't speak any French (or the local language Wolof).
Only in very few places someone spoke a little bit of English, so I am serious about this one.
I recommend taking some time to learn some basics before your Senegal trip.
Locals also appreciate if you learn just a few phrases in their local language, Wolof.
Salamaleekum (Peace be upon you - greeting)
Waaleekum salaam (Peace be upon you - response)
Na nga def? (How are you?)
Maa ngi fi (I'm fine)
Jërëjëf (Thank you)
Baax na (Okay/good)
Waaw (Yes)
Déedéet (No)
If you want to just quickly learn some basic phrases in French to get along, I can recommend for example this Youtube video.
Major European airlines (e.g., TAP Portugal, Turkish Airlines, Iberia) fly to Dakar International airport.
Direct flights are available from New York (Delta), with other US options via Paris or Casablanca (Royal Air Maroc).
Tip: You can also fly to Gambia and travel to Senegal from there.
(for example, from Spain you can fly directly from Madrid to Dakar and from Barcelona to Gambia)
Bus: Limited international bus routes exist from Mali and The Gambia; check local depots for schedules. Check bus Dem Dikk from Gambia.
Car/Taxi: If you are in Gambia, you can grab a taxi (remember to negotiate price).
Please note that cars in Senegal are not modern. You can anyhow also grab a very affordable shared ride.
Ferry: A truly unique, long-haul option: weekly ferries from Hamburg and passenger berths on container ships from Antwerp to Dakar's port.
Ask the taxi driver to pop by at ATM, instead of exchanging money at the expensive currency converters at the airport.
Even the ATMs at the airport have worse rates than elsewhere.
In Senegal, the cars were the oldest I’ve ever been in.
With this I mean, we could not open the windows, as the whole door would have probably dropped if I did.
However, getting around by car is the best option, and for this you have 4 vehicle options:
"Sept Place"
Shared station wagons (7 seats) are a cheap local option for longer distances, departing when full – be prepared to wait.
Tip: You can simply buy all 7 seats of the car if you want to leave asap. It is still affordable in most cases.
Taxis
Convenient for longer trips but can be pricey. Remember to agree on price beforehand.
Yango: “Uber of Senegal”
Yango is an app like Uber or Taxify, where you can request rides. It is normally a bit cheaper than a taxi.
However, this works mainly in Dakar and not so much in rural areas. Please note they often add road toll costs on top of the price (or you can choose to go no toll road).
Buses
Require booking in advance, less flexible for spontaneous travel. Check Dem Dikk buses.
In rural areas I felt also comfortable to hitchhike and agree on price.
In general sharing a ride is common and works better than Yango in rural areas.
Senegal generally offers a lower cost of living compared to many Western countries. However, Dakar, the capital, as well as touristy areas, are surprisingly pricey for accommodation and restaurants, and other touristy services. In some things Spain feels cheaper.
Accommodation: Budget travelers can find hostels or guesthouses for around 30€ per night.
Mid-range hotels in tourist areas typically range from 50-70€, while luxury options can exceed 300€.
Food: Eating local is affordable. Street food like "thiéboudienne" (fish and rice) or "mafé" (peanut stew) can cost around 5€. In tourist-aimed restarants prices for dinner for two vary between 15-40€.
Transportation: Local Sept Places are very cheap, costing around 3€ per trip. Taxis are readily available; negotiate the fare beforehand. Renting a car offers flexibility but is more expensive.
Bargaining is common and expected in markets, with street vendors, and for taxis.
A general starting point is to offer 20-50% lower than the initial price.
Be polite and friendly during negotiations, and remember it should be a respectful interaction.
Bargaining is less common in established shops, restaurants, and hotels, where prices are usually fixed.
Currency: The official currency is the West African CFA Franc (XOF). It is pegged to the Euro at a fixed rate (approximately 656 XOF = 1 EUR).
Exchanging Money: Euros and US dollars can be exchanged in major cities, banks, and some hotels. It is anyhow much better rate to simply use ATMs.
Credit Cards: In my experience, most of the places accept only cash or mobile money, even in the fancier resorts we stayed at.
ATMs: ATMs are available in major cities, allowing you to withdraw local currency. The best ATMs to use in Senegal are Bank of Africa (BOA), Central Bank of West African States and Attijariwafa Bank
Cash: You will definitely need cash, also to pay for accommodations. Make sure you have enough before going to rural areas, or opt for mobile money Wave or Orange Money.
Be Aware of Scams: As with any tourist destination, be mindful of potential scams. Be wary of overly helpful strangers and always agree on taxi fares in advance. Simply use common sense, otherwise I felt safe in Senegal financially.
I felt safe during my stay in Senegal. However, as always, use common sense and be aware of potential risks.
With these tips I am sure you can have a safe experience in Senegal.
Exercise normal precautions: Be aware of your surroundings and avoid displaying excessive wealth.
Petty Crime: Pickpocketing and bag snatching can occur, especially in crowded areas like markets and around tourist attractions (e.g., the Gorée pier). Be vigilant with your belongings.
Avoid Walking Alone at Night: It's advisable to avoid walking alone after dark, particularly in less well-lit areas or on beaches.
Secure Your Belongings: Keep doors and windows locked in your accommodation and vehicles. Don't leave valuables in plain sight in cars.
Pre-arrange Transport: Especially upon arrival, consider pre-arranging airport transfers with your accommodation or a trusted contact.
Stay in Secure Accommodation: Choose hotels with good security measures.
Dakar: Be particularly cautious of muggings and robberies.
Casamance Region: Exercise increased caution or avoid non-essential travel to areas outside the main tourist routes (Cap Skirring, Zinguinchor, and the connecting main road) due to the risk of armed banditry and clashes between separatist groups and the military. Landmines are also a concern off main roads. Travel overland during daylight hours if necessary.
Border Areas (with Mali and Mauritania): Be vigilant in remote areas near the borders due to potential instability.
Road Travel: Avoid driving at night between cities due to safety concerns. Stick to main roads.
Scams: Be aware of common tourist scams. Be wary of overly friendly strangers offering unsolicited help.
Demonstrations and Strikes: Public demonstrations and strikes can occur, particularly in larger cities, and can sometimes turn violent. Avoid these gatherings and monitor local news.
Photography Restrictions: Be careful when taking photos. It's illegal to photograph government buildings, official facilities, and airports.
Don't Carry Excessive Cash or Valuables: Only carry what you need for the day, or keep it in various places.
Learn Basic French: While not a safety measure in itself, it can help you communicate and avoid misunderstandings.
Trust Your Instincts: If a situation feels unsafe, remove yourself from it.
Inform Someone of Your Plans: Let someone know your itinerary.
Senegal has a tropical climate characterized by two distinct seasons:
Expect pleasant temperatures, typically ranging from 20°C to 30°C (68°F to 86°F), with sunny skies and low humidity, especially along the coast.
Inland areas can get hotter and dustier, particularly from March to May, due to the Harmattan winds blowing in from the Sahara. While these winds bring dry air, they can also carry dust and haze.
The nights can be surprisingly cool in the desert regions during this time.
This period offers optimal conditions for exploring, enjoying beaches, and wildlife viewing. Birdwatchers will find this season particularly rewarding as migratory birds arrive from Europe.
This season brings high temperatures (often reaching 30°C to 40°C / 86°F to 104°F) and high humidity.
Expect frequent and sometimes heavy rainfall, with August typically being the wettest month. While the rain often comes in bursts and doesn't last all day, it can cause disruptions to travel, especially on rural roads, and some national parks may become inaccessible due to flooding.
The landscape becomes lush and green during this time, particularly in the southern Casamance region, which can be appealing to some travelers seeking a quieter, more verdant experience.
Sea temperatures are also warmer during the rainy season.
In summary, the best time to travel to Senegal is generally during the dry season, from November to May, for the most comfortable weather conditions and ease of travel.
Senegal offers a mix of luxurious French resorts and rural Africa.
The stunning coastlines with empty beaches and affordable Safari were the highlights of my Senegal trip.
House of Slaves is a must-visit to understand the history.
Check out these 7 Senegal trip destinations to visit.
Dakar: The busy Capital
What to See in Dakar:
Île de Gorée (UNESCO World Heritage Site, a poignant reminder of the slave trade),
the Grand Mosque, the Presidential Palace,
the Thiès Tapestry Factory, the vibrant markets (Marché Kermel, Marché HLM), and
the Musée des Civilisations Noires.
Explore the lively Plateau district and the artistic neighborhood of Medina.
Travel Tips:
Be prepared for the hustle and bustle. Keep a close eye on your belongings.
Negotiate taxi fares before getting in.
Try the local street food, but choose busy and reputable vendors.
Allow a full day to explore Île de Gorée, including the ferry journey.
Saly: Beach Relaxation & Water Activities
What to Do in Saly:
This popular coastal resort town offers long stretches of sandy beaches, perfect for sunbathing, swimming, and various water sports like jet skiing and windsurfing.
Travel Tips:
Saly is ideal for those seeking relaxation and resort amenities.
Be aware that it can be quite touristy, especially during peak season.
Consider day trips to nearby attractions like the Bandia Reserve.
Bandia Nature Reserve: Affordable Wildlife Encounters
Animals to See in Bandia:
A smaller, fenced reserve offering excellent opportunities to see giraffes, rhinos, zebras, various antelopes, monkeys, crocodiles, and a variety of birdlife in a relatively compact area.
It's known for its impressive baobab trees as well.
Travel Tips:
Easily accessible from Dakar (around 1-1.5 hours) and Saly (around 30 minutes). Consider a day trip.
Guided tours in 4x4 vehicles are the best way to explore the reserve. We shared a vehicle of 8 with other people we met at the Bandia ticket booth - so no need to book or plan in advance.
Arrive in the morning for the best time for wildlife viewing
Sine-Saloum Delta: Nature and Tranquility
Things to See in Delta:
A UNESCO World Heritage Site, this network of islands, waterways, and mangrove forests is teeming with birdlife and offers opportunities for boat trips, fishing, and exploring traditional villages.
Toubakouta is a charming base in this region.
You can go kayaking or boating through mangrove forests.
Travel Tips:
Take a pirogue (traditional canoe) trip through the bolongs (water channels).
Visit the sacred baobab trees and ancient burial sites.
Engage with the local culture and learn about their traditions.
Saint-Louis: Island Charm & Colonial History
Things to See in Saint-Louis:
The UNESCO-listed island with its beautiful, crumbling colonial architecture, the Faidherbe Bridge, the Governor's Palace, the Grand Mosque, and the lively fishing quarter of Guet Ndar.
It's also a gateway to the Langue de Barbarie National Park (birdwatching).
Travel Tips:
Stay on the island for the best atmosphere, especially during cultural events like the Saint-Louis Jazz Festival (usually in May/June).
Explore the island on foot or by traditional horse-drawn carriage.
Enjoy fresh seafood at local restaurants.
Consider a boat trip to the Langue de Barbarie for incredible birdlife.
Popenguine: Private beaches and Coastal Serenity
Things to See in Saint-Louis:
Explore the pristine sandy beach, the dramatic cliffs offering panoramic views of the Atlantic, and the Popenguine Nature Reserve, a protected area known for its diverse birdlife and coastal landscapes.
Discover the charming local village and its relaxed atmosphere.
Travel Tips:
Popenguine offers a quieter and more authentic experience compared to the busier resorts like Saly.
The Popenguine Nature Reserve is ideal for hiking and birdwatching; consider hiring a local guide within the reserve.
Enjoy fresh seafood at the local restaurants along the beach.
The beach is great for leisurely walks and swimming, though be mindful of potential currents further out.
You can get to Popenguine by taxi or shared transport ("sept place") from Dakar or other parts of the Petite Côte.
My travel style is a mix of optimizing the budget and enjoying more luxurious experiences.
In Senegal I chose slightly more pricey accommodation (not pricey for real, but like 60€/night).
This was to have a safe, comfortable place to come back to, and to make sure the air conditioning works and I have a comfortable bed to sleep on.
I spent a long time comparing accommodation beforehand, so these are the ones I can recommend based on my experience.
Dakar: Africa Works Suites
Rated: 9.2 Based on: 33 Reviews
This was really new hotel when we booked it, not yet having much reviews. The building was new, room really nice, clean and spacious and breakfast was good.
At breakfast you can order main dish as well, like omelette with veggies etc.
The place has also a rooftop where we did actually a nice 30-minute workout.
Saly: Villa Yemaya
Rated: 9.7 Based on: 28 Reviews
This was an absolute gem and a highlight of my trip.
This stunning, modern Villa was lovely experience and I would love to return.
It is also located near th beach.
Price is sligthly higher though, but I think it is worth it.
Sine-Saloum Delta: Les Barracudas
Rated: 8.6 Based on: 88 Reviews
I need to be honest - as we are not native French speakers, we were not treated well in this place.
However, the location was beautiful in the middle of the waters of Delta and Mangrove Forests to go kayaking to.
The pool area is nice to chill and I recommend taking half-board (if not full board) , as the meals are great and you are in the middle of nowhere.
Beach village near Dakar Airport: Hotel Zarafah in Popenguine
Rated: 9.0 Based on: 60 Reviews
We chose to stay also in Popneguine towards the end of our trip to be already nearby the Airport.
Hotel Zarafah was a nice, new hotel (in a random location to be honest).
Here in Popenguine though was amazing beach that we had basically just for ourselves.
Saint-Louis
Rated: 9.3 Based on: 47 Reviews
If you want to go also to Saint Louis, give a try to this Association Humanitaire Keur Mama Africa Hotel.
It is nearby the beach in a peaceful location with a nice room.
If you would still like to browse accommodation options in different destinations of Senegal, I personally always browse and book via booking.
You can search here, and get all options to choose from for your dates to compare prices, read reviews and book.
Senegal is an underrated Safari destination, compared to more known destinations like South Africa, Botswana and Namibia for classic Big Five safaris, though it can offer more affordable wildlife viewing experiences compared to those destinations.
We saw Giraffes, Zeebras, Antelopes, Monkeys, Pumbas and Zazus all over the place. And the entrance for two was altogether about 65€.
I did not want to have too high expectations for Bandia Safari, because it was apparently not so likely to see that many animals.
So I was very positively surprised.
Best way to do the tour is simply to get yourself to the Bandia Nature Reserve Entrance early in the morning (not for real early though, as it opens at 8).
We were there actually at 9 and we were just fine.
Best thing to do is to gather a group of people to join for an 8-seater Safari car. That way you all pay just individual entrance and share the costs of a guide and the car.
Alternatively, you can also enter with your private vehicle.
It is in a way better option, as then you can go at your own pace, and you are not dependent on others to find a group to join to share the ride with.
I could not help but notice the French influence in Dakar. All the fancier places we stayed, offered fully French diet. instead of even offering the option for local cuisine.
I mean, it was a bit odd eating Oysters and Baguette in Unesco world heritage site Saluom Delta in Senegal.
This made me curious to dive deeper into the colonial past of Senegal.
The term "French Neo-Colonialism in Senegal" refers to the argument that even after Senegal gained independence in 1960, France has continued to exert significant influence over the country through various means, hindering its genuine sovereignty and development.
This concept is often discussed under the broader term "Françafrique".
If you want to understand more about it from econoimcal, political and cultural point of view, check the Wikipedia article.
In conclusion, the issue of French neo-colonialism in Senegal is a complex and ongoing debate. While historical ties and continued French influence are undeniable, the extent to which they hinder Senegal's progress and sovereignty is a subject of much discussion and evolving dynamics.
Other interesting articles about French Neo-Colonioalism in Senegal:
https://aaprp-intl.org/la-francafrique-senegals-french-problem/
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fran%C3%A7afrique
When traveling to Senegal, I recommend leaving all your most valuable belongings at home, like jewelry and stuff like that which is not necessary.
We decided to travel with only hand luggage, as you don't need a lot of warm clothes (or at all) as it is mostly very warm in Senegal.
I recommend utilizing this Traveling with only hand luggage packing list, which gives you step-by-step guidance to check you have all that you need.
Free Printable
Packing List
Grab this simple 5-step list to travel with only hand luggage